The Mount Everest Expedition of 1924 page 3

They were told that if they put a camp at 27,000 feet, thus enabling the climbers to press on to the summit, that their own names would appear in letters of gold in the book that would be written to describe the achievement. So they agreed to go - not perhaps for the reward, but for the glory of the effort.

The party struggled upwards and soon passed the highest point reached in 1922. But at 1.30 it became impossible to urge the porters to go higher; and so, looking about, they saw a narrow cleft in the rock which gave a suggestion of shelter from the north-west wind; and here they pitched their topmost tent at about 27,000 feet. Camp VI. had been achieved! The three gallant "Tigers" had done their bit. They were sent back to the Base Camp with a note commending their achievements, and saying that they had to be fed on "the fat of the land."

Only two climbers - Somervell and Norton - spent the night at that dizzy eminence, for there could be no room for more in a little tent perched so far up the mountain. For the first time in the history of Everest, the climbers were now working with a supporting party, Odell and Irvine, who had followed them up to Camp V. The others were down at Camp IV and at the Base. One Englishman had always to be on guard at the Base, because it contained a considerable sum of money and notes.

Norton and Somervell turned in for the night at Camp VI. in readiness for the attack on the final peak on the following day. Each took two thermos flasks, filled with hot tea, into his sleeping-bag, to keep him warm. Norton records that during the night one of his bottles got rid of its cork and its contents, no longer warm, flowed into his sleeping-bag. Next morning they were out early, determined to make a tremendous effort to conquer the summit. They passed out on to the unexplored peak and, after going an hour, encountered a layer of yellow sandstone, about 1,000 feet deep, running right across the mountain from shoulder to shoulder. This sandstone, if traversed diagonally, is fairly easy going, but the two mountaineers were bitterly cold, and they shivered violently whenever they rested in the sun. The view at this height was found to be less imposing than it had been at Camp V., 3,000 feet below. At 25,000 feet the snowy peaks and winding glaciers were an incomparable sight; but here at 28,000 feet some of the peaks were flattened out, and much of the beauty of the outline had disappeared. But one could see a tremendous distance, right over to the great plateau of Tibet. The eye travelled over range on range of smaller mountains until all sense of distance was lost. Then it would be sharply regained as taller snow peaks, like tiny teeth, appeared on the horizon, perhaps a hundred miles away. But Norton's eyes were beginning to give him trouble. The insufficiency of oxygen was causing him to lose his sight, while Somervell's throat was again sensitive to the great height. They were both in wretched condition, stopping continuously, and sitting down every few minutes, while Somervell coughed incessantly.

In this last effort to mount the peak they had started with the intention of making twenty consecutive paces uphill before they paused to rest and pant; but thirteen steps and a stop were the best that they could do.

Somervell, the man who had so valiantly grappled with the frightened porters on the snow-slope, was at noon compelled to give in. Telling Norton that he was only delaying the ascent, he urged him to go on alone to the top. In mountaineering it is the man alone who decides, and Norton, leaving Somervell sitting on a rock, still coughing, continued upwards. The two were near to the spot which, some years later, was probably reached by Wilson, the lone climber, before the mountain got him.

Norton records that as he proceeded slowly upwards he encountered two buttresses where the going became much more difficult; It was so steep that the foothold ledges narrowed to a few inches, and these were concealed by powdery snow, which made the whole face of the mountain look like tiles on a roof, sloping at much the same angle. It was very slippery and extremely dangerous for a single unroped climber, who might be sent to the bottom of the mountain. He was getting exhausted, and his eyes were troubling him more than ever. He had still 200 feet of steep climbing, before emerging on to the North face, and perhaps a safe and easy route to the summit. In his present semi-blind condition he had now no hope of mounting that slippery steep, going on to the point, and then returning in safety. But he had reached 28,126 feet and was within 900 feet of his goal. Yet in the last hour he had only gained 100 feet. At that pace, to go on, was probably to spend the night on the mountain. In such altitudes one is unable to feel either elation or disappointment; but it was a disappointed man who turned back and joined Somervell. The pair retraced their steps to Camp VI. and continued downwards. When they saw other members of their party ascending with oxygen, the two shouted that it was not oxygen but hot drink - the Everest craving - that they needed, as well as help down to Gamp IV., which they reached in safety by 9.30 p.m.

With the monsoon so near and no chance of pitching a seventh tent at a higher spot than Camp VI. during this expedition, the wiser thing might have been for all to have turned back, leaving another attempt to a future date. But while Norton and Somervell had been making their effort, Mallory and Sandy Irvine had been talking things over, and had determined on one final "shot at the summit."

So on June 6, 1924, the others said good-bye to Mallory and Irvine without thinking, as they shook hands and wished them luck, that they would see them no more. Before they left, Mallory and Irvine had been given for breakfast "a choice fry of sizzling sardines," which with biscuits, hot tea and chocolate were served in Mallory's tent. Though the two were grateful for this encouraging send-off by their colleagues, they were so eager to be off that they hardly did justice to the meal.

In view of the breathing difficulties experienced by the others, Mallory and Irvine had decided to carry a modified oxygen apparatus together with wraps and a food ration for the day, about 25 Lbs. It was their intention to spend the night in the little tent at Camp VI. and then to go out early next morning to challenge the final peak. They started off in a brilliant morning and were soon lost to view in the ice hummocks which conceal the saddle of the North Col.

One last message was received from the two. It was a note to Odell from Mallory brought by the porter who had accompanied the pair. The note apologised for leaving the camp in such a mess, opined that at the last moment their cooker had rolled down the slope and was lost, and emphasised that all must be sure to get back to Camp IV., before dark, ready to evacuate the mountain immediately. Mallory also asked Odell to look for a compass that he had left behind, and to rescue it.

When that note was being written Odell was rejoicing to see that the weather was so promising, auguring so well for Mallory's attempt next day. He looked out at the dark bulk of Everest, observed the exaggerated opalescence of the far northern horizon, and reflected on what he described as "an ineffable transcendent experience." In that luminous night the conditions were so clear that he had no qualms for the climbers. But next day the weather was not quite so ideal. Odell, on that day, wishing to test his own physical fitness, decided to climb a crag, 100 feet high, which provided a good view of the route taken by his two comrades. As he reached its top he saw a sudden clearing of the atmosphere about him, and the whole summit, ridge and final peak of Everest became unveiled. In his report of that last climb which he wrote for the Alpine Journal, Odell thus describes that memorable experience:

"I noticed far away on a snow-slope leading up to the last step but one from the base of the final pyramid, a tiny Abject moving and approaching the rock step. A second object followed, and then the first climbed to the top of the step. As I stood intently watching this dramatic appearance, the scene became enveloped in cloud, and I could not actually be certain that I saw the second figure join the first. I was surprised, above all, to see them so late as this, namely 12.30, at a point that, according to Mallory's schedule, should have been reached by 10 a.m. at latest. I could see that they were moving expeditiously, as if endeavouring to make up for lost time. True, they were moving one at a time over what was apparently but moderately difficult ground, but one cannot definitely conclude from this that they were roped - an important consideration in any estimate of what befell them. I had seen that there was a considerable quantity of new snow covering some of the upper rocks near the summit ridge, and this may have caused delay in the ascent. Burdened as they undoubtedly were with the oxygen apparatus, these snow-covered, debris-sprinkled slabs may have given much trouble. The oxygen apparatus itself may have needed repair or readjustment either before or after they left Camp VI., and so have delayed them. Or both these factors may have been operative."

Odell continued on his way up to Camp VI., where he arrived at about two o'clock, expecting to welcome Mallory and Irvine and to help them down, should they be returning because of the severe blizzard which had now set in. Odell had brought Mallory's compass, which had been left at Camp V., and this he took with him as he too went out towards the summit. Having scrambled up 200 feet, yodelling and whistling to attract attention as he went, he took shelter behind a rock from the driving sleet. Here he waited for an hour, and then, confident that his friends were not within call, he panted back to the tent, where he arrived just as the storm blew over. From Camp VI. he could now see the whole north face of the mountain bathed in sunshine; but though he looked long and eagerly at the upper crags to which his friends had been clinging, he could see no signs of them.

Mallory had requested Odell to return early to Camp IV, as he specially wished to reach there himself after the climb. Furthermore, there was only room in Camp VI. for two, should the missing men decide to spend another night there; and so Odell, at four-thirty, glissaded down the hard snow to the North Col, which he reached just before 7 p.m. Here Hazard awaited him with hot soup, and the pair waited and watched, though still not greatly anxious, for a sign of Mallory and Irvine. The two did not return, nor was a flare of distress seen from them. Odell and Hazard next morning trained their field-glasses on to Camps V. and VI. above, but they detected no figure and no movement. At midday Odell climbed up again to Camp V., taking two porters with him. But these had to be sent back because of indisposition. Odell spent a bitterly cold night and slept little; but next day he again made Camp VI., where he found everything as he had left it; no one had entered the tent since he was there two days ago. Dumping his oxygen apparatus, he again went out on to the peak in search of Mallory and Irvine, but found the wind so bitterly cold that he had to take shelter behind rocks to restore warmth. He spent two hours more searching among the crags and broken slabs for his missing comrades, but concluded that for any further search a party must be organised.

Now he dragged the two sleeping-bags up to a steep snow patch on a crag above the tent, and signalled to Hazard that their comrades had not been found. That signal was seen at a point 4,000 feet below, though the answer could not be distinguished. This is how Odell described his thoughts at that forlorn moment:

"Closing up the tent and leaving its contents as my friends had left them, I glanced up at the mighty summit above me. It seemed to look down with cold indifference on... mere puny man, and howl derision in wind-gusts at my petition to yield up its secret, the mystery of my friends. If it were indeed the sacred ground of Chomolungma, Goddess Mother of the Mountains, had we violated it? Was I now violating it? And yet as I gazed again there seemed to be something alluring in that towering presence. I was almost fascinated. I realised that no mere mountaineer alone could but be fascinated; that he who approaches close must ever be led on and, oblivious of all obstacles, seek to reach that most sacred and highest place of all. It seemed that my friends must have been thus enchanted also: for why else should they tarry? In an effort to suppress my feelings, I turned my gaze downwards to the North Col far below, and I remembered that other of my companions would be anxiously awaiting my return, eager to hear what tidings I carried. Alone and in meditation I slowly commenced my long descent."

Arrived at Gamp IV., Odell learned that he had anticipated the wishes of Norton, who had sent up from the Ease for his return, as there could be no further value in a prolonged search of the mountain, seeing that the monsoon was about to break and that their companions must have died. Apparently Mallory and Irvine had reached to a height of 28,320 feet when last they were seen, and had only another 800 feet to mount before they were on the summit.

At that spot they were already three or four hours behind schedule, and even if they had not encountered further difficulties, they could not have expected to get back to the highest camp before nightfall. But there was a late moon, it was fine in the evening, and the mountain was clear of mist. Since they did not reach the tent, they must have perished, for sleep on the mountain would prove fatal. Either the two had missed their way and died from exhaustion and exposure, or had met their death by falling when roped together. It may be that some day their bodies will be discovered embalmed in ice; but until then the place where they died and how they died must be subjects of conjecture.

The performance put up by Odell in searching for his missing comrades was amazing. The amount of energy involved in going from Camp IV. to Camp VI., back to Camp IV., up again to Camp VI., and down once more, should have been more than sufficient to have carried him those 2,000 odd feet to the top of Everest.

Very reluctantly the expedition decided that they must gather together their equipment, and return to England, leaving Everest still triumphant, and their comrades lying somewhere dead at its feet.